Multi-Media Models: Part Three Metal Components with Evan Allen In the last article (read part two here; read part one here), I looked at the resin components used in Flames Of War models. This week I'll examine the metal components. The metal components of Battlefront tanks will reduce in number but won’t be completely disappearing, and some kits may end up with some of all three types of material. There is no real difference to the methods used for plastic and resin than for cleaning up metal components, and the same types of glue used for plastic to resin also apply for metal to plastic or metal to resin, so no surprises there.  Learn more about the Master Modeller, Evan Allen here... Left: Evan, kicking it old skool.

The metal used by Battlefront is a white metal alloy that contains several components but the vast bulk is Tin followed by Lead. This mix gives an alloy that produces nice crisp detail but has a slight softness that makes it easy to work with. As with all products containing lead there are sensible precautions that should be heeded and the usual hygiene steps should be followed rigorously when working with this alloy. Lead, in its oxide form, is poisonous and should be avoided (like corrosion on old weather exposed lead, old paint pigments, petrol/gas additive, old pottery glazing etc). Right: A French Somua S-35 with a mix of resin and metal parts.

Fortunately when it’s in a metallic form, as long as you follow good hygiene and work area cleanliness, you are extremely unlikely to have any chance of incurring lead poisoning. Don’t eat or smoke while working with lead based products and dispose of any metal filings carefully, wash your hands afterwards and keep away from pets or young children. The metal filings are still metal, and not an oxide, so are not going to cause poisoning. Talcum powder is used during the casting process to help the metal flow into the moulds and it’s perfectly normal to see some of this powder residue on the metal parts straight out of the blisters or boxes, just grab that old toothbrush and give them a brush if there seems more than is desirable before painting.

Below: Examples of venting and flashing on figures.

Just like with the Resin and Plastic parts it pays to check the metal components thoroughly. The molten metal alloy is poured into high speed spinning rubber moulds and occasionally you can get issues like “mould shift” where the two halves have moved slightly relative to each other. There is normally a slight mould part line in evidence that can be removed easily by scraping with a sharp knife, with the same technique I suggested for plastic, or by using the GF9 Diamond micro files. If it’s proving to be much more than can be removed by those methods it may pay to contact Battlefront customer service to get replacements instead, nobody wants to paint miscast figures or parts! Likewise sometimes the moulds loose small bits of rubber over time and allow build-ups of alloy in places where it’s not meant to be. The mould are usually replaced regularly but if you do find parts like that and you can’t easily remove the excess then contact the customer service folks and they’ll look after you.

Below: An example of a mould line on a gun barrel.

Putting Them All Together Summary Once you have all your parts sorted then test fit them before getting the glue out. Spend some serious time on this and also think about the best sequence to follow, especially if there’s more than one to construct and, maybe an assembly line process can give a better or quicker outcome. Due to the nature of these materials and their interaction there will sometimes be some extra work required to make adjustments to get the best fit possible, the odd bump or lump filed off, piece straightened, or even some excess width etc. removed, but it’s worth that time and effort so that the final tank or AFV looks great after the paint goes on.

Make sure you test fit again after any modifications, it’s better to do this bit by bit rather than go all at once to minimise the risk of going too far.  Make sure that you use the correct glue! Super glue or epoxy glue will still stick plastic to plastic but I think it’s best to use the polystyrene cement for that particular job. If you’re planning on adding some extra detail additions after assembly then look at how they affect the overall model, will some extra stowage at certain points interfere with the turret rotation? What wear effects do the crew or weapons have on the external look of the AFV. Left: When added stowage, make sure it doesn't interfere with the turret rotating.

Always use good hygiene practises around hobby materials, especially when finished for the day. Make sure you have some ventilation for the more smelly jobs and keep a dust mask handy for those dusty moments. Tools can be sharp so take good care of them and around them, remember blunt cutting tools are more dangerous than sharp ones! Watch the fingers when cutting and try and use the correct tool for the job. Keep the tops firmly on containers of volatile fluids and paint containers and, my particular favourite is, to give my work area a good clean after each use. These are not children’s toys and some modelling skills and general knowledge are necessary for construction but we try to keep them to the bare minimum required and still give good detail.  We have been including the assembly guides for all new products in the spotlight articles recently and, also going back over older ones for inclusion as well so check: /products

Sometimes faults do occur in the manufacturing and packing process and slip through un-noticed though so if you find a problem don’t hesitate to get in contact with the Battlefront customer service reps – even I hate finding something missing or not formed properly! ~ Evan.